Elvis, the blues, BBQ? Martin Luther King, Civil Rights, the Civil War? What comes to mind when you think of Memphis? After living there for almost 7 years, I think they all apply, as well as much more history, culture, and amazing food. I went back this summer for a few days for a friend’s wedding, and while I was busy with bridal fun, I gave my husband my recommended itinerary, which is what I will share now with you. Though it’s not a huge city, there is plenty to see, do, and eat (although if you go in the summer, you may find the heat and humidity a little limiting on your outside activities), and I’ll share my favorites here.
Day 1:
Assuming you arrive sometime in the afternoon, grab your rental car and check into your hotel.
I’d recommend staying downtown; we stayed at the renovated Hu. Hotel. It was one of my favorite bars when I lived there, on the rooftop with an ideal view of the Mississipi River. The hotel was not the best experience; though they were accommodating, they felt understaffed and overwhelmed by even simple requests, and the parking structure was across the street, not attached.
If your budget allows, I’ve heard great things about ARRIVE Hotel, The Central Station Memphis (attached to a renovated railway station that still services AMTRAK), or the historic Peabody Hotel. Even if you can’t stay at the Peabody, it is worth stopping to watch the March of the Ducks at 11am or 5pm, when they strut from their rooftop palace to the elevator to the fountain, and back again. It is very cute!
For dinner night 1, I recommend a tasty Memphis staple: Gus’ Fried Chicken. There are locations downtown and in east Memphis, so go wherever it is closest to your hotel. You can order in, but it doesn’t travel well, so I recommend ordering and enjoying there.
My go-to order is a 2 piece dark meat (thigh and leg), with macaroni and cheese and their greens. If I am eating with others, I might start with the fried pickles or fried okra with ranch. Their fried chicken is delicious, crispy with a flavorful dose of spice (but it’s not Nashville hot chicken-check out Hattie B’s for that!). I also highly recommend trying their sweet tea-it’s very sweet but a good sampling of southern sweet tea.
Side note: don’t come to Memphis on a diet. The city has incredible food from all over and while there are healthier choices, I personally don’t think a visit would be complete without some Gus’ chicken, Central BBQ, and a Gibson’s donut (or three…).
If you still have room for dessert, check out The Cheesecake Corner downtown. Their hours are a little unusual but if you find it open, it’s delicious and decadent cheesecake.
Then head back to your hotel because you’ve got a busy day tomorrow.
Day 2: (First full day)
Breakfast downtown: Head to Sunrise Memphis for one of the most amazing breakfasts/brunches in town. Their biscuits are incredible (make sure you get something served on a biscuit, or order one on the side), their eggs delightful, and their coffee locally sourced and delicious. They’ve also got fun boozy options for brunch (and if you’re visiting, maybe indulge?). There’s also a location in East Memphis if you are staying further east.
Then make your way to the National Civil Rights Museum. This is my one must-do for visitors in Memphis. It is an incredible museum that traces the civil rights movements of the United States, built around the Lorraine Motel, where Martin Luther King Jr was assassinated. It takes a few hours but is well worth your time. Learn more and book your ticket ahead of time here.
For lunch, we’re heading to Central BBQ across the street. Everything is good at Central, but they are especially known for their pulled pork and ribs. I prefer to get the BBQ nachos with pork and then the BBQ salad with pork or chicken, but my kosher cousins enjoyed their turkey options (the vegetarian cousins just had salad, so they were less impressed…). This last time around, my husband got some ribs and he enjoyed those too. If you want to compare Sweet Teas, the Central sweet tea is also very sweet and tasty.
Now it’s time to walk off these amazing meals (if you want). Head to the newly revisioned Tom Lee Park and take a walk along the Mississippi River (unless it’s really hot, then check out the Trolley for a seated tour of downtown for only $1).
Take it easy this afternoon and get ready for dinner (like I said, be ready to eat!). There are many fine dining options downtown; my favorites when I lived there were Catherine and Mary’s, and South of Beale.
If you like nightlife, take a meander down Beale Street–it’s quite an experience. Grab a nightcap and enjoy some live music at any number of bars. Then head back and get some sleep!
Day 3:
Yesterday, you may have been able to do much of it without a car, but today we’ll get some miles in.
For breakfast, head to University of Memphis favorite Brother Juniper for luxurious espresso drinks, hearty egg dishes, and fluffy, ginormous pancakes. I especially recommend the cinnamon roll pancakes! If you want something faster/cheaper, Gibson’s Donuts is also a great option!
Now our paths may diverge: Elvis fans will want to head to Graceland and make their pilgrimage to the King’s home. (Full disclosure: I like Elvis but one trip to Graceland was enough for me).
If the weather is pleasant, head to Shelby Farms Park out in east Memphis and explore one of the largest city parks in the US. There’s a great walking trail around Patriot Lake, paved for easy access with some cool nature elements, or some light hiking trails in other parts of the park, as well as playgrounds. There’s even a restaurant on the lake, though it’s a different one from when I lived there, so I can’t attest to the quality.
Some lunch options near Shelby Farms include Casablanca-East Memphis, serving fresh Mediterranean food, including shawarma, hummus, and salads; Newk’s Eatery for sandwiches or salads, or Huey’s for great burgers.
That afternoon, take it easy or head to one of the many iconic recording studios in town for a tour, including Sun Studios, where stars like Elvis, Johnny Cash, and B.B. King recorded their hits, or Stax Studios, home of soul.
For dinner, check out one of many great restaurants in midtown, especially around Overton Square or Cooper Young. Some of my favorites in Overton Square are The Second Line, Babalu, Lafayette’s (especially for live music). In Cooper Young, I love Young Avenue Deli (their sweet potato fries are great!), or the Beauty Shop (also a solid brunch choice). Find some live music in the neighborhood and enjoy some creative cocktails at Alchemy or Bar DKDC.
Then head home for some sleep before one last great day in Memphis!
Day 4 (departure day):
I usually try to take the last flight out (or close to it), so I can make the most of my last day in a destination. If you get a later flight, you can still have a great day of adventure in Memphis (but if not, you can at least have great breakfast!).
If you have time, it’s back to midtown! Eat breakfast at Cafe Eclectic-try their housemade donuts and great coffee, then head for a walk around Overton Park, which has great trails and playgrounds. It is also home to the Memphis Zoo, so if you have a little more time and like zoos, visit one of the top rated ones in the country. It’s not as expansive as San Diego, but there are some really cool exhibits, especially for the hippos!
Grab a quick lunch on your way to the airport-did you know you can carry on BBQ as long as the sauce is already distributed? or enjoy a more leisurely meal before heading out.
Other fun things to do if you have time: Walk around Mud Island, walk across the Pedestrian Bridge to Arkansas, drive to Arkansas or Mississippi (just to check them off your list if you want!), enjoy the Pink Palace Museum, the Fire Museum, the Cotton Museum, or many other museums around town, and stroll Beale Street for some more music, drinks, food, and fun.
I hope you enjoy your trip to Memphis–please comment or email me if you want help planning; I’d love to customize an itinerary for you and yours.
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